My Big Fat Greek Holiday

September 16, 2015September 16, 20152 Comments

Today marks the last day of my summer in Greece, as I hit the road back to Madrid at 6:30am tomorrow morning. This summer has been magical in so many ways, and whatever the opposite of magical is, in even more ways. Well, maybe not even more, I’d say way significantly less, but it always happens that the bad overshadows the good in the grand scheme of things when the heart is thrown in and has to be involved. I feel stuck in a very weird place as I return to Madrid, and a bit like Carrie did when she moved to Paris for the Russian. Yes, Sex and the City is always relevant. Always. And the episode that fits the mood is usually always on right when it needs to be. Carrie and the Russian aside, this summer saw its fair share of ups and downs, and I’d like to think it was worth it. Matters of the heart always make a leap worth it, right? Right!

Anyways! While I’m not one to be overly emotional on this blog (just in real life), I can’t help but be when I reflect on my time in this beautiful country, spent with that beautiful gorgeous man who drives me cray. So, in an effort to not make this blog a diary of deep, I’m going to show case what made this summer absolutely exquisite and one of the best decisions I’ve ever made. In the name of love or not, I stand by my gut that coming here was a smart move and 150% worth it. If only to treat my eyeballs and tastebuds.

In bidding adieu to Grecia, and saying a new, and hopefully refreshed hello to España (minus my Crocodile), here we have the most memorable things I’ve laid my eyes and heart on this summer.

My First Meal Which Looked & Tasted Like Garlic

I also had Gemista (stuffed tomatoes and peppers), which I think might be one of my favorite foods ever.

Paying a Return Visit To The Acropolis & Its Beautiful Ruins

I’ve always been a fan of vintage things over new things, and letting the inner hatred for tourists in Tevas flow freely.

Cruisin’ The Athens Coast

A Real Greek hooked me up with another Real Greek to show me the Real Greek coast. Athens sure is gorge when you get out along the agua.

Pretty Pretty Parga

Spent an afternoon basking in Preveza on the Ionian Sea, followed by a stroll through the gorgeous port city of Parga.

Wandering And Wandering Around Ioannina

This city is insanely beautiful, sleepy, tiny, and 150% worth a trip to. It might actually be my favorite city on the mainland that I visited, but I’m also biased and spent the most time here.

Ioannina’s Pamvotis Island, From Near & Far, Wherever We Are

My first day in Ioannina was marked by a vespa ride up to the top of the mountain to overlook Pamvotis lake and island, and later in the week I took the boat out to the island, which is pretty as a picture or two.

The Insanely Old Bridge, & All The Zagori

This part of Greece that I raved about to everyone near and far was some of the most beautiful ang lush nature I’ve ever seen. Truly breathtaking, even while driving and running through the mountainous cliffs in pouring rain.

Sunsets, English Breakfasts, & All The Waters in Corfu, Paxos, & Antipaxos

I stayed in San Stefanos, in northern Corfu, surrounded by Brits on their yearly summer holidays. I popped off to the neighboring islands, and ate far too many English breakfasts. It was delicious, I probably gained a clogged artery or two, and it was more than stunning.

San Stefanos beach

Agios Giorgios beach was my fave!!

Antipaxos like WHOA!

Clogging my arteries with a pseudo British lad.

Agios Giorgios basking.

Hiking my sweaty ass to Arillas beach.

At the edge of the freakin world!

Cat whispering in Old Corfu Town.

Leaving The Greek’s Apartment Everyday With This View

No wonder Lambchops loves blue and green. You’re basically forced to.

My Big Fat Greek Village Summer Festival

Perhaps one of my favorite things I did in Greece was attend a village festival just outside of Ioannina. Everyone goes back to their villages during the summer, there’s parties, dancing, food, and tons of alcohol aflowin’. I partook in the dance (of course), and it was such a unique experience! My Big Fat Greek Jewish Wedding anyone?? Hora and traditional Greek dance up the ying yang!

These Delicious Lambchops Served To Me By Lambchops

Inhaled alongside a local bottle of Retsina and Coke, followed by Greek writing lessons. Yummy.

Dancing Umbrellas in Thessaloniki

These umbrellas are an art installation that overlook the sea on the Thessaloniki coastline. I found them on an Instagram search, and when I told the Russian girl I met that I needed to find them, we went on a stroll along the boardwalk, and voila!

Swimming In Turquoise Water The Color Of A Highlighter In Lefkada

To get down to Egremni Beach, we walked down (and up!) 350 stairs on the edge of a cliff, only to be greeted by the perfectly crisp waters that surround the island of Lefkada.

This Man & His Shiny Red Vespa

Thank you Mister.

And with that, I’m off. Greece, you are stunning, and I hope you figure out your economic and political woes, mostly so certain people (eh hem) can lay off a heaping dose of the stress. Until next time, yassas, efkaristo, harika, cavla, kalimera, kalispera, kalinikta…and all that jazz.

Greek Village Hip Hopping

August 12, 2015August 12, 2015Leave a comment

When I first got to Spain and started tutoring Spanish kiddos, whenever I’d ask what they did the past weekend, or what they’re doing for the upcoming weekend, most responses (when they weren’t ‘nothing’ or telling me about the food they ate because I always ask about food) involved going to their village. I’d sit in my head thinking WTF do you mean your village? Do you own this village? I didn’t really think that, but conclusions were being drawn up. Then they’d tell me, matter-of-factly, that it’s where their parents come from, or their grandparents, or great grandparents or donkey – basically, where their ancestors originated from, grew up, herded sheep, made cheese; things they do in villages.

Then I got to Greece, and Lambchops began talking about villages too. This was becoming a very interesting word to me. Up until now, I don’t really think the word village was a common word in my everyday vernacular, outside of explaining that the city that Agoura Hills runs into is Westlake Village and they’re basically the same place. Then it kind of struck me how weird that was, that village is a strange word to me. I pinpointed it in going back to being an American hailing from a country of immigrants that’s quite a baby in the grand scheme of country ages. Quite au contraire, here I am in a country on a continent filled with ruins and people who conquered ish and discovered the New World. And made homes in remote places, where their families settled for generation upon generation.

Of course people didn’t ALWAYS live in big cities, and cities weren’t always cities, and they weren’t always big. People obviously lived in tiny communities, thus the village. We don’t have villages in America, towns yes, but not villages.Take a ponder.

Some of the villages that are nestled in the hills of Zagori. Lambchops’ mom comes from the 2nd on that lil list.

Driving through the mountains of Zagori, home to approximately 50 villages, there are some of the most beautiful mountains I’ve ever seen, and then you round the corner and there’s a little village of around 100 residents tucked away on the cliff in the distance. Oh, and then you’re driving and, oh hi, there’s a cow dripping in rain water staring right at you, or a shepherd herding his flock of goats.

Cows and goats aside, here are the pretty little villages we popped into, each for something different.

Big & Small Papigos

When we initially headed out into the mountains of Zagori, Lambchops told me to get in a bathing suit, for he had a couple surprises consisting of the water-play variety. The first was a pit stop at a river in one of the two Papigos, where the water was so cold I couldn’t bear to stand in it for longer than 7 seconds. It was so bone-chilling cold, but mista (and the family of Germans) was far more tolerant than I! It was so beautiful with aquamarine water and a bridge that I’m sure is hundreds of years old. We left to the second Papigo and my feet felt refreshed to the bone.

Unfortunately for our sweaty bodices it started to torrentially downpour just before we got to the big Papigo, which I can only describe as a series of hot-spring type pools tucked away off the main road in its own little sanctuary. I wanted to jump in, but also feared for my klutzy self that I would slip and break my body on the slippery rocks. Instead we settled for selfies with the water that was tarnished by the dirty rain.

Aristi

My first village introduction was in Aristi. When we drove through, along cliffs that are apparently of a greater depth than the Grand Canyon (I’m still skeptical), my first view was of the most lush greenery, only to reveal hoards of stone buildings coming around the bend. I thought it looked like the little town Belle dances through in Beauty and the Beast (I know, I said this about Prague too). When we drove back through Aristi on our way home, it was mid-torrential downpour and we needed something to warm us from the inside out (and fill our quite hungry tummies).

Before the skies turned grey.

Well, we made quite a scene as we raced from car to taverna, only to enter the establishment sopping wet from puddle hopping and full of uproarious laughter. We sat down for some tapas style mystery meat and rice (devoured), and the deathly strong tsipouro. I may have grown a few hairs on my chest that evening.

Manhood meets boyhood.

Dilofo

Perhaps my favorite village on our village-hopping tour was that of Dilofo. We only ate dinner here, but it had a majestic view and birthed a fun little anecdote.

It was quite a memorable drive in and over the mountains, as Lambchops and I were once again talking about root words and general meanings of words and their developments from Greek (like many things, shocker). We somehow got on the topic of the word ‘truth’, and the translation to Greek, ‘alithea’. I don’t know how this came up, but it reminded me of my Frenchie roomie’s friend Althea, and the time when Justin asked her the meaning of her name, because it sounded like the meaning of ‘truth’ in Greek. Well, flash forward to coming up the mountain, parking cliffside to take in all the pretty, and right in front of us was a hotel with no other name than that deriving of ‘truth’. We like to jinx ourselves a lot.

Then on to dinner, prepared by one of his friends who hails from the same village as his mother. We noshed on beet root and goat cheese drizzled in some kind of balsamic glaze, some chickpea and eggplant amazingness, and chicken pie. It was so heavenly and hearty. And all that washed down with a view.

Metsovo

Metsovo is located about 30 minutes drive from Ioannina, and is currently home to the highest population of Vlach people in Greece. Vlach, deriving of Latin origins, is the dialect that the Greek’s mother speaks, and fun fact, it’s entirely a spoken language. Once the last speaker of Vlach passes on, the language will be dead. Fascinating!

The little village of Metsovo is famous for its local cheeses and wine, so of course we had to eat cheese, coupled with chicken and lamb souvlaki, and per the usual, the lamb won. The village also appears to be a rest stop for many trips coming down through the Balkans, so there were a handful of tourist busses littering the center of the endless cobblestone everything.

The Bridge of Kokkorou

While it’s not a village, persay, the bridge of Kokkorou is nestled high up in Zagori, and is very worthy of a mention. Before arriving, Mr. Chops told me that we were going to see a bridge even more famous than the Golden Gate Bridge. Well, throughout Greece the bridge at Kokkorou is just as famous as the Golden Gate, and rightfully so. Built in 1750, the bridge is so intricately built of stone and what I’m assuming man sweat, and to me looked like the edge of the Earth was below us.

And there you go for this week’s round up of the alternative side of Greece. This country is so magical with every stone, wave, and plate of tomato put in front of my face. Have you visited any villages in Greece? Did you stop to think about the word village and if I’m wrong about villages in the States? Have any other places I should trek my butt out to? Holler at me!

A Summer Holiday In That Other Side of Greece

July 30, 2015July 30, 2015Leave a comment

The last time I was in Greece was in October 2007 with my mom and brother. I’ve wanted to return so badly, and finally had the free time and a pretty sexy reason (if that’s even a requirement) to return. This time for a couple months (yikes) holiday in between my trip home and my return to Spain in October. Not too shabby and a lot a bit scary. I’m here this summer with absolutely nothing to do but eat tzatziki and the reddest tomatoes on the planet, walk around getting blacker by the second, jump in mediterranean waters, squeeze in some exam studying, tend to this blog which I’ve handsomely neglected this year, and see some untouched Greece along the way. Nothing to do. Who even has time to say that? Not many, especially the Greek I’ve come to see.

My heavenly first meal.

So here I am in the northwest region of Epirus, neighboring the island of Corfu and Albania, in the city of Ioannina, which I’ve been told has about the same population as Santa Barbara County (for those interested in population counts and want a point of reference). It ain’t big, but my, is it beautiful and untouched, and a side of Greece that few, if any, think of when the country comes to mind. At its center lies Lake Pamvotis, with the unnamed island perched in the center. Surrounded by mountains on all sides, the city of Ioannina was once quite secluded and a journey to get to, until the initiation of a great highway system.

The view from way up in the mountain village of Ligiades.

On my first day here, Mr. Chops zipped us around town via sparkling red Vespa, and my first thought after “I hope I don’t fall off this thing,” was “this is exactly what I envisioned for my European life!” those eons ago when I first planted the seed of a life in Europe in my 10 year old brain. The city consists of a bustling stream of cafes and shops surrounding the hushed part of town lying within the once-upon-a-time castle walls. There are cobblestone streets aplenty, renovated buildings side-by-side with ones in disarray and graffiti, a stunning lake, and of course since it’s Greece, captain of all things ancient and crumbling, a plethora of remnants from the Byzantine and Ottoman eras.

Lambchops has been quite concerned for my boredom here, and how I’ll keep busy for a summer, which is unbearably sweet. To be honest, there isn’t a ton to do in the realm of excitement, so I understand, but I’m also not looking for a crazy time; and gorgeous places are within a mountain’s drive or boat ride away. I also like to wander, so I’ve done enough of that to turn about 5 shades of negro darker and find myself in a new part of town on most days when he comes to fetch me after work around plus or minus 3pm.

Of the ways I’ve spent my weekday afternoons while he’s been busy working his brain off and I’m not trying to add my womanly touch to his quarters (lots of scrubbing required), well, let me break them down for you.

1. Drink Coffee Like the Greeks Do, and People Watch

There are so many cafes in this city that it’s quite hard to choose just the right one. They’re all so cute, and when I look for a cafe to sit in I definitely look for a ‘cute’ ambience. I know, how girly of me. But after coming from Korea, land of the cafe, to Spain thats sucks as far as cafe culture goes, Greece has the cafe on lock. After you’ve chosen your locale, choose your coffee. Nescafé rose to fame some time ago with their Frappé, or simply Nescafé because they own that entire market. They’re quite sweet, and from the looks of the tummies on most men, consumed on the regular. I personally have been ordering an Espresso Freddo, which is essentially espresso over ice with sugar, only I ask for medium sugar because health (and I just can’t do espresso black because of sensitive tummy and bitterness). And when I’m feeling particularly in need of calming, and mind-traveling, a glass of white wine, because I’m in Europe and that’s what people do in the afternoon besides eat a huge lunch and nap.

The lines of people waiting to retrieve their 50 euro per day is real.

2. Walk Through the Castle Walls

If you’re in the market for some quiet wandering, just walk towards the lake and you will be met with these ancient walls at one point or another. Once you enter it’ll amaze you how you can hear a pin drop. It’s so unbelievably quiet (unless you’re being followed by a hoard of loud and obnoxious out-of-work youths). These homes are from what I have been told some of the most expensive property in the city, and date back 100s of years. This region of the city has seen many changes in power whether under the Byzantine or Ottoman rule of Ali Pasha. Walking through here is one of those reasons why Greece is so fascinating to me as an American. It’s amazing to see structures like Ottoman bathhouses that have been preserved from seriously hundreds and hundreds of years ago.

3. Visit Its Kale Fortress

As I already mentioned, it’s really amazing to walk through a modern city, and then stumble onto remnants of eras passed. Within the castle walls lies yet another set of walls, and the former home of the Ottoman ruler Ali Pasha. Sitting high on the acropolis overlooking Lake Pamvotis, this fortified area underwent massive amounts of renovation during his rule. While his palace is in ruins, there also lies Fetiyie Mosque overlooking the lake, with his immaculately designed tomb just in front, and the Byzantine Museum in between the two.

Fetiyie Mosque, The Byzantine Museum, & the residence of Ali Pasha.

The final resting place of Ali Pasha and one of his wives.

4. Ferry Out To the Nameless Island

A ferry leaves the main port in Ioannina every 30 minutes and makes its 10 minute journey over to the island, which plays home to approximately 100 people. Aside from the restaurants serving up fresh seafood (the specialty I hear is eel, and not my thang), there are a few streets filled with residents begging you to buy souvenirs of silver and baklava from their little shops. Delicious baklava I might add. Once you get past the main entry point, you are free to wander and roam through the white-washed walkways and see the many Ottoman-era monasteries that litter the tiny island. I walked past some, but frankly it was too hot to ascend the hills, plus I get cathedraled or religiositied out and am more into seeing how the people live and the picturesque streets and boats. I basically went to the island and spent a lazy afternoon walking around, swatting mosquitos, itching my bites, visiting the Ali Pasha museum where he was beheaded, drinking white wine by the lake, and talking to two little girls who were in awe of the foreign English speaker at their cousin’s restaurant on this tiny little island.

The salvaged canon (and balls) used by Ali Pasha to protect from the Turks when Ioannina was seized between 1820 – 1822.

5. Visit Ioannina of the Mountains

This is of course just what I call it. One of my first days here, we took the vespa way up (about halfway up) the mountain on the other side of Lake Pamvotis to a lookout point, that also happens to bear a monument in memoriam to the people of Ligiades who were massacred by the Germans in October 1943. Fun little fact about Ioannina is that before World War II, it was also home to the biggest Jewish population in all of Greece. Who knows, perhaps the Greek side of Mama Schaeff’s family originated from here before settling in Odessa. I wonder! Though not religious in any sense of the word, I am fascinated by Jewish history, and love that Mr. Chops has enlightened me to that history of his city. And funny I’d end up here, in the land of Greek Orthodox.

6. Jump In A Pool

When the heat needs to be beat, jump in a huge vat of water at a hotel pool. Ioannina is about an hour from the beaches of Igoumenitsa, Sivota, and Preveza (amongst others) which we have definitely visited, but you can see are a bit out of everyday reach when sans vehicle or public transport. So pool it is! Lambchops told me about Hotel du Lac which has a lovely pool open to the public for 8 euros a pop, which is more than worth it for a dip and a shade change in the dead of summer. They also have other nice spa treatments and massages which I may just treat myself to in the not so distant future.

7. Get Fit

Lambchops and I said we were gonna get active and keep our health regimes in check, which I think we’ve both done a decent time of maintaining despite the lack of cooking utensils and materials in his apartment. That aside, we are big meal sharers, and I found the studio Yoga Union which is excellent, unlike the yoga I signed up for in Korea (me, a sweater who never sweat, imagine that). I signed up for the month, and at the very least it gives me one thing I need to commit to!

8. When All Else Fails…

Take a nap, because the entire city turns into a ghost town between the hours of 3-5pm. The siesta culture here is insane. Even more pronounced than that of Spain, the country that claims the siesta. I was out walking around one afternoon and was literally in awe. It’s one of those things you don’t really fully believe until you see that absolutely nothing is open and any restaurant that is actually open is sans comida. I’m not kidding, there’s even a typed out reminder to keep your trap shut during said hours in the entryway to his apartment building.

Now that you’ve seen the exhilarating ways I’ve been spending my early afternoons, stay tuned for the late afternoon/early evening excursions to come. They’ve been beautious and open an eye to a historical and lush side of Greece that you will definitely want to see if you haven’t already!